TropicGreen Lawn & Tree Care
303-593-0483
A Colorado Company For Colorado
TropicGreen Lawn & Tree Care
Arvada, CO 80002
United States
ph: 303-593-0483
tropicgr
FAQ
| Question | |
| Why would brown patches develop in a lawn that is watered every other evening for an hour? | |
 | |
| Answer | |
| If a well-watered lawn develops brown patches, more likely than not, it has developed a fungal problem. Here are some pointers that might help identify a lawn fungus: --Dead grass that pulls away from the roots easily; --Grass blades that are green on their lower portion with the upper part pinched together and brown; --Yellow-green blotches on blades that eventually bleach to a white or straw color. Controls for fungus include good cultural methods. Lawn watering is best done early in the day so that grass blades may become dry before nightfall. Watering at night causes grass blades to remain wet for long periods of time, which is a good way to promote fungus. If the lawn has a thick layer of thatch, it should be core aerated in either the spring or fall, or at both times if thatch is heavy. |
Question Why would a lawn that is watered twice a day for five minutes each time in the summer appear to dry out very quickly? Answer Watering lawns daily for very short time periods causes the root growth of grass to be very shallow. During the very hot times of summer, the surface of the soil becomes dry and if that is where the roots are located, there are no moisture reserves to sustain growth. Watering lawns less often, but for longer time periods allows the moisture, and therefore roots, to reach greater depths. Then, when the summer becomes hot, roots have access to moisture reserves that will help the lawn to withstand dry times. As a rule of thumb, lawns require approximately 2.5 inches of water weekly, applied every second or third day. Question How can you rejuvenate a lawn that has been poorly maintained and has highly-compacted soil? Answer Every lawn can benefit from aeration (core cultivation) and it will help reduce thatch and reduce soil compaction. If the aeration is done well, once in the spring (March-May) and once in the fall (September-October) will probably be sufficient. A GOOD core cultivation job entails actually pulling plugs of soil out of the lawn, NOT just poking holes in the surface. Plug holes should be 2 to 3 inches apart in all directions, and 2 to 3 inches deep. Depending on the quality of the equipment used for aeration, it may require going over the lawn 2 to 4 times, although very good aeration equipment can do the job with one pass. It often helps to water the lawn (with 1/2 to 3/4 inch of water) 1 to 2 days before core cultivation is attempted. The soil should be moist, but not soggy. Again, it is important that the plugs of soil be pulled up and left on the lawn surface. If the lawn is too wet, you will only make holes. If it is too dry, the aerator tines will not penetrate into the soil. The soil plugs can be left on the lawn; they will break down with irrigation, rain and mowing. It is fine to fertilize and overseed the lawn following core cultivation. Question What could be causing holes and mounds to appear in the yard, and what is a recommended treatment? Answer Voles or pocket gophers could be causing holes, tunnels and/or mounds to appear in the yard. Voles are small mammals that look somewhat like mice. These rodents cause damage by girdling seedling and mature trees in orchards, shelterbelts and forests. They also damage ornamental plants and field crops and frequently construct "runways" in lawns. They prefer the bark of young trees but will attack any tree, regardless of age, when food is scarce. Eight species of voles are found in Colorado. They often are called meadow, field or pine mice. Orchards should be monitored frequently so control measures can be implemented before appreciable damage occurs. Most damage occurs in the winter when voles move through their grass runways under the protection of snow. The greatest damage seems to coincide with years of heavy snowfall. Voles also girdle the roots of trees and shrubs, and they often damage lawns and golf courses by constructing runways and burrow systems. Vole damage to trees and shrubs is characterized by girdling and patches of irregular patterns of gnaw marks about 1/16- to 1/8-inch wide. Gnawed stems may have a pointed tip. Other signs of damage by voles include 1- to 2-inch wide runways through matted grass and burrows, and spongy soil from burrowing activity. Trees that appear to suffer from disease or insect infestation may be suffering from unseen vole damage. Damage by voles can be reduced by habitat modification, exclusion, repellents, trapping, and poison grain baits. Voles are classified as non-game wildlife in Colorado and may be captured or killed when they create a nuisance or cause property damage. To protect against vole damage, encircle young trees and shrubs with 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth or 3-inch diameter Vexar plastic-mesh cylinders. This barrier should project 18 inches above the ground and 3 to 6 inches below the surface. Do not confuse vole damage with damage by rabbits, which includes stems clipped at a smooth 45-degree angle and wider gnaw marks. Stems browsed by deer usually have a rough jagged edge.
TropicGreen Lawn & Tree Care
Arvada, CO 80002
United States
ph: 303-593-0483
tropicgr
